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Author Topic: 79 Pantera 5000 Hex Clutch  (Read 421 times)


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79 Pantera 5000 Hex Clutch
« on: July 04, 2021, 02:21:10 am »
Was LUCKY to score a perfect NOS clutch without a front cover and the spring.As fickle as I've read these to be, I think it should be balanced.
I must have the stock Hex because I'm retrofitting an NOS start kit.
I have another (from a 340 Jag) that I can use the front cover from.
Neither the front (from the Jag) or the stationary sheave (of the brand new NOS) has any material removed from them.

The OE Hex that I took off has TERRIBLE lateral wear in the spider & the moveable twists slightly on the shaft. Good I found an Nos, eh?
So methinks that this is typical wear for an abused, non balanced clutch.
What is the STD  spring for the 79 5000 Pantera (green ??).

And what are the three square head bolts (set screws?) on the spider for ????.... To center the spider on the shaft ??? To center the rollers on the ramps ?? - How tight they be ?
So, thinking on putting it all together, lubin' the hell out of it with graphite spray, installing the starter gear & shipping out to a reputable shop.

Whadya think?

Should I change the PTO crank gasket while I'm at it ?? And the cover too? or just the gasket?
Sooo anxious to see how much snot this bad girl had in '79 !!!
« Last Edit: July 04, 2021, 03:36:45 am by HappyChappy »


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    Re: 79 Pantera 5000 Hex Clutch
    « Reply #1 on: July 04, 2021, 02:09:31 pm »
    I've seen others on here say otherwise, but I've never had any luck mixing and matching hex clutch parts.  Every one I've tried shook like crazy when I started the engine.  IMHO, I would get it balanced just to be safe.

    Off the top of my head I don't know what the stock spring is, but I'd put a green one in it anyhow.  The last I knew, new ones are still available from High Performance Engineering.

    The three set screws are to lock the spider to the hex shaft.  There should be three dimples in the hex shaft that the screws lock into.  They want to be as tight as you dare make them, and the same with the locking nuts.  In fact, I usually put blue Loc-tite on them too just to make sure they stay put.  They've been known to come loose.

    The graphite spray won't hurt anything, but it doesn't stay put very long on the hex shaft.

    Personally, I do a complete teardown and re-seal on any vintage sled engine before I run it.  If you're lucky, it will start right up and run fine.  If you're unlucky, the dried up seals and gaskets will hold just long enough to get it wound up really tight, then disintegrate into a pile of scrap aluminum in the belly pan.  Then you start searching E-bay and the classifieds for another '79 Pantera 5000 engine.  What are the odds you'll find another one of those in perfect working order?  ;) ;D
    1971 634 Puma, 1972 340/440 Puma, 1977 Pantera, 1983 EL-JAGRE, 1980 Jag w/295 Wankel power, 2003 Z 570, 1967 Rupp A-Bone/MC90, 1984 MXK Mirage/Briggs Flathead-alky fueled


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    Re: 79 Pantera 5000 Hex Clutch
    « Reply #2 on: July 05, 2021, 09:57:19 pm »
    Agree with all that Brett says. They are excellent clutches because they just work so darn good. Bushings are the weak point on that Type.

    Check the weights and rollers for the correct P.N.

    I've got those clutches on my Twisters and they really haul the mail. 

    Make sure Hex shaft is shiny Brite using steel wool.

    Agree with changing the PTO seal. The one on the other side is protected much more so than PTo side.

    Can't see yours but have had luck if the engine has been stored inside relative to the crank and seals.

    I would pop the cylinders and heads off. Lube the hell out of the crank . Let it sit in Marvel Mystery oil for days.

    If you see lots of rust on the crank you are in for a complete rebuild.

    Hope this helps,Teamgreen

    1976 440  Sno Twister-five months of pure hell!
    1974 Sno Twister 400-Yep she's fast!
    1976 440 Trail Twister- First resto
    1975 340 Sno Twister-resto finished!
    1973 Speedway Max 440
    1976 Sno Twister 250


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    Re: 79 Pantera 5000 Hex Clutch
    « Reply #3 on: July 05, 2021, 10:43:41 pm »
    I have the identical sled. Bought it in 2012. It had 400 miles on the clock, but who knows if that's true.

    I go through any engine that's new to me. Judging by the condition of the pistons and bores, I'd say 400 miles was about right. Put in new seals and gaskets regardless. Check your carb settings. My needle jet clip was set in the top groove. It ran really well, but after installing temp gauges discovered it was running 600 degrees in the mid range. I moved the clip to the stock 4th groove from the top and the temps came back to normal.

    Now to the clutch. Mine came with a trashed Polaris P85. I bought a nice used hex from a '77 Panther 5000 and ran it. It worked great. Through the years I have replaced parts as needed (bushings only last me a season or two). I pretty much take it apart every year to check for wear and broken stuff. I use a later model spider with bushings at the pivots because the older ones that pivot on pins are so hard to find tight ones anymore. Green spring is stock and what I use. I use the big rollers #0146-355, #362 ramps, #286 weights.

    The sled does have a lot of "snot" for what it is. It will run faster than I care to run it on old school suspension. The hex runs great for me in this sled, but it is high maintenance in my experience.
    1971 Arctic Cat Panther 440A, 1972 Scorpion Stinger II, 1973 Raider 44TT, 1979 Arctic Cat Pantera 5000