Restoration Tips

[jddecalguy]

when i start a restoration i start at one end and work to the other. take a part off and clean it up, paint it if needed and put it in a plastic tub. labeling the tubs(yes several tubs!) frontend, motor, and so on....
when all the parts are off and restored i re-assemble in the same way.

jddecalguy
Chris

[Vintagesleds.com]

[yamaha71]

-If the manufacturer did not use it -Do not use colored fuel line(pink, blue,green) for a show quality sled.  It is distracting and takes away from the sleds appearance.  Use clear Tygon Premium line and the proper black braided line for impulse.

-Do not paint anything as an assembly. unless it was originally done so. If you rivet or screw components together and then paint- it may not look as original or correct. Also suspension, leaf spring sets, or engine parts. Its more work to disassemble it all and clean each part and paint, but you will be happier and people do notice.

-Do not use scotch lock ,butt connectors, or any soldierless connectors and then wrap with black tape, If possible, always soldier and use the correct color shrink tubing .

-Route wiring and fuel lines correctly , and use the proper type of ties (probably were not zip ties in the "70s) clean plumbing and wiring is important.

Just a few things I have learned the hard way. Details are important to judges or just the average sledder/critic.  If your just doing a basic restore to ride and have fun- who cares.

[snowmanhat]

If you have a hard time finding replacements for original bolts and nuts as I have, I found a wire wheel on bench grinder does wonders to remove old paint  and rust from bolts, nuts, etc ...  - if not to be painted, a light coat of oil or silicone to preserve, and it's still all original.

Enjoy the passion

[GaWajn]

This is all very good information, especialy to us novices. I'm not sure what the policy is for archiving threads ... but I think this one deserves a sticky!

[corona-guy]

 These are all great tips, keep sending them,I'll be doing my first restoration soon a 72 775 tnt, I'm adding this to my 72 400 f/a should make a good pair.Looking forward to the project, more tips the better. This is also my first posting. Any help on where to find skidoo parts would sure help.

[McBrenner]

Wow, I'm glad started this thread. I'm sure more people than me have gotten help from this thread, thanks so much guys!!

[vmaxx4]

I asked about chrome cleaning over on 24/7, these are the replies.

Wondering what is the best way to clean up lightly rusted chrome parts?
1.   Take some aluminum foil, wad it up and scrub the rust off.  It won't scratch your chrome and it will strip light to moderate rust right off of your chrome.  Some people say to use coke or 7-UP, but all that does is make a sticky mess.  Afterwards apply some chrome polish and voila...like new!
2.   I used some light steel wool work great and don’t take any of the chrome off either -fan 
3.   If you want to clean as well as polish it use a cleaner called Brasso we polish are sprint cars with it and learned it from that’s what we alwayed cleaned and polished are airplane with If it is Aluminum it will put a show shine on it and it cleans rusted chrome up almost like new
4.   Aluminum foil does work nice.  I've become a bigger fan of "000" steel wool & DuPont chrome polish used together
5.   I also have used:  CLR ...seems to work pretty darn good.
6.   Use a razor blade. I can clean the rust off the outside edges of a 72 Rupp ski in 30 seconds. Then  go after it with a good chrome cleaner.

[yankeedoodle]

Wigman....those must be tall sawhorses.  I think I read you were 6'7'' tall?
   I forgot the stirupps and the front handlebar hoop support bolts before I put my track back in my 73 Nitro.  I managed to get the stirups back in but the bolts for the handlebar supports are too far forward. Guess the track is comin back out.  My advice would be...DON'T RUSH PUTTNG IT BACK TOGTHER FOR A SHOW!. I made that mistake, screwed up a motor and have the above issues.

  Wig..you goin to Ruppfest.  We could carpool if you think you could fit into a 08' Ford Taurus.

[vtg]

Some excellent tips here! Having completed several restorations myself, I agree with all of them. I guess one tip I'd have for novice restorers is to pick a rather simple/basic sled for their first restoration. Most 60's and early seventies sleds are pretty straightforward to work on. But if you pick something from the later 70's or anything that's rare or rather complex, you might end up getting discouraged. I'd suggest working your way up to the more technically challenging units and getting a grasp of the basics on the simpler stuff. And some of those old sleds are pretty sweet rides!

[vmaxx4]

Some one already mentioned pictures, but I'll say it again because with today's technology there is no excuse not to have a lot of pictures of your project to look back on if needed during reassemble. I also organize the pictures for each restore on a memory stick with individual folders of the different sections of the sleds, manuals that I'll find on line, cut and pasted documents,brochures, tips, paint codes, advertised potential parts/motors that are for sale I might need and want, contacts for information/help...etc. If it's all setup ahead of time it is easy to cut and paste information and "save as" pictures when you stumble across them. 

...Mark.

[cory464]

here is a tip on restoration. bite sized pieces. the temptation is to tear it all apart and do the whole thing, but if you are short on funds, experience, time or all of the above, break the sled into chunks and restore the chunks. order isn't important.  take the track/ rear skid out, restore that, then pull the engine out etc etc. that way you have shiny parts to look at, and the task isn't so overwhelming. dong the upholstery and paint first is really motivating, since if you get bummed that it will never be done, throw the hood and seat on and you can see how good it will be when done. the risk is getting them broken or dirty when apart. by taking pieces off, you minimize the amount of pieces to lose. it adds a little bit of time, but i find it works better for me.

[oldcadman]

most things have been covererd. i would add this to your list, put all the part numbers down you need on a piece of paper and carry it with you. i cant tell you how many times i've come across a part at a rummage sale or swap meet and wondered will that fit my sled.  mistake'

[340TNT]

After cleaning all the crud out of the chassis, spray all the chassis/engine bolts and nuts with a "creeping" rust penetrant such as FLUIDFILM that stays WET. Use a pointy tool such as an awl to scratch rust away where the bolts seats up against, maybe a small wire brush if there is room, this gets the flaky rust out of the way and allows the penetrant to get to where it is needed. This saves alot of broken bolts, which can ruin parts and slow down the project and your enthusiasm yippee". Spray it and let it sit for months, years even, until you can get at it.

[mikek5510]

in spider cracks grind them out and use PVC glue it eats right into the hood and it is sandable

[oldsleds]

I always wondered if that would work, but was chicken to try it. "cheers