One of the last parts to rebuild on this motor is the recoil. These are always a bunch of fun but fortunately, there have been ample parts donations for this portion of the project. There was little that I needed to re-use and the critical stuff was all new. The JLO recoil, for me at least, has been one of the lesser troublesome recoil designs in my fleet of machines. I think I have had the most issues with the Hirth style of recoil design. The first step in the disassembly is the removal of the cover plate. Just four small machine screws and it comes off.
In the photo above I actually flipped the cover plate over after I removed so you can see the tracks made by the friction cups. The JLO recoil uses a unique spring-clip design to activate the pawls but it relies on friction first and foremost. There are two springs and four cups of two sizes that ride on two plates, a top and bottom.
If you ever remove a cover plate and only see one spring-cup assembly, look at the underside of the cover plate. They often stick in their wear grooves and come off with the plate. Both plates should be clean and grease free. The pawls just rest in place on two large pivot pins. Again with the overbuilding, the pawls are big brutes and pretty heavy duty. The single tooth on the very end is the only area that I have ever really seen wear. These two pawls were in good shape so they were reused. Pawl retraction is acheived by two small wire springs, one for each pawl, with creatively formed/bent ends to prevent them from coming loose.
The four small machine screws are the only fasteners used in this recoil and once the pawls are out, the bottom plate lifts straight up and away. Again, I will scrub this up very well before re-installing it.
The pulley is exposed now and the first temption at this point is to just lift it out of there. DO NOT REMOVE IT. There is about 1 1/4 turn of pre-load applied to the ribbon spring beneath it and it's a strong spring. Lifting the pulley out at this point is a sure fire way to make it go "fffwoooing" into a ball of twisted ribbon like spring steel. The recoil has had rope installed in place of the steel cable and this will not hold up. These recoils need that steel wire. I had no intention of saving the rope so I puilled the cable end out from the back side of the handle and cut it off. Just make sure you hold onto the rope (or keep the pulley from turning) when you cut it because it'll want to be drawn into the recoil. The cable end is a round wedge style of cable end is identical to those used by Hirth.
There is a rubber bumper and a plastic stop that is threaded into the recoil. The rubber stop is supposed to be attached the recoil handle and the plastic stop will need to be removed. You can leave it attached, but it makes it difficul to thread the new cable when you're re-assembling it because the hole in the middle isn't much larger than the cable diameter.
Now you can slowly release the pre-load on the spring and let the rope wind up on the pulley. When the tension is removed, carefully lift the untensioned puller from the housing just about 1/4 or so. There is a small hole, maybe 3/8" diameter, where the end of the ribbon spring is recessed within from below that is accessible from the exposed side of the pulley. Use a small screw driver to push the rolled end of the spring from the bottom side of the pulley. In the picture below, you can see this hole to the left of the center hub.
If you've lifted the pulley too far, the ribbon spring will come out with that "fffwooing" sound that has to be one of the most sickening sounds a vintage sled guy ever has to hear. I was lucky with this one and it stayed put but then I realized that I had new spring and and a new housing. It would have been easier to leave the old spring in there and re-use the housing. The new spring came nice and neatly packaged with a wire retainer keeping it wound nice and small. I was very careful to set in place, secure the loop on one end of the spring with the pin on the housing. Holding it tight I carefully slipped the wire off and voila!!....it was in. Piece of cake until I turned my back and it heard that sound. It took me four attempts to re-wind it small enough it by hand and get it back in there.
I set it asside with the slow and careful motions of someone handling an armed 10 megaton nuclear warhead then focused on the rewind pulley and cable.
I added a generous dollup of low temp grease to the hub before I wound the wire rope onto the pulley.
Your cable must be fed onto the pulley from the topside. There is a lip on the end of the round end of the wire rope that will rub/bind on the housing if you install it from below.
I wrapped the wire rope around the pulley as tightly as I could by hand and when I reached the end, I used a peice of duct tape, 2 inches long or so, just barely wrapped around the backside of the pulley and an inch or so before the bare end of the wire to hold the wire rope below the OD of the pulley. I used a second, smaller peice applied in the same fashion to push that last 1" down within the groove of the pulley. You need to do this so you can apply the pre-load to the ribbon spring. The duct tape needs to be removable so don't secure it too well to the backside of the pulley.
Once the tape is on, carefully retrieve the housing and spring. You may have to bend the inner end of the spring slightly to get it to aling with the recess in the bottom of the pulley but once it drops int there, you're set to go. I used a small allen wrench through that same 3/8" to align the end of the spring with the recess. Now that the spring is engaged in the pulley and it's dropped fully into the housing, turn the pulley counterclockwise about 1 1/4 turns. Once the end of the wire rope and the duct tape aligns witht the passage through the housing, remove the peice of tape from the end. The remaining 1" or so will stand up above edge of the pulley. You can now continue to rotate the pulley counterclockwise to feed the wire rope through and since there is a second peice of tape holding it, the wire rope won't back up on you and bind between the housing and the pulley. Once the wire rope is through, remove the last peice of duct tape. Unfortunately, you need both hands for this so I couldn't take photos. Once the rope was through, I used a screw driver through another hole in the pulley to keep it from losing tension.
As long as that screwdriver doesn't let loose, it's a cake walk from here. You can feed the wire through installing the plastic stop, the rubber bumper and the handle.
Fold the wire over on itself as tightly as you can then install the wedge -style cable end int the recoil handle.
From here you can re-install the bottom plate, the pawls, friction cups & springs, and finally the cover/top plate and it's all done.