76 T/T 440 carb tuning issues. Help!!!

[KidneyCracker]

Just me thinking out loud but let's say for example even if my primary clutch wasn't moving at all I should still get full rpms right? Because i know that different weights in the clutch will control max rpm not the movement of the sheaves. I think I'm right. I just fixed my dads clutch on his TNT I was getting full rpm not full movement because one of the weight units was worn out. So...... If I'm correct on my thinking then it would be safe to say that these weights are NOT correct for this motor. Am I right???

[Vintagesleds.com]

[duane]

Cracker, verify the weights/ramps/spring etc that you currently have. Then bring everything to stock spec for the Twister, you will be happy. Merc did all of the homework, all you have to be is a parts hanger on this sled.

[KidneyCracker]

Does anyone know what stock specs for the drive clutch are? My book doesnt tell me specifics. I have some Arctic Cat clutch parts so j might be able to come up with something

[duane]

clutch wt 286
ramp 293

[KidneyCracker]

I tore just the cover off because I don't have a puller. It has a blue spring. Ramps are 293's like you said. Can't see numbers on the weights without taking them out. Choke is acting up again. It might be that the cable is shot. Just by looking at the discoloration of the lever I would say it's original. Probobly a little on the "seen it's better days" side. If I unhook both cables and hold them in my hand, I pull the lever to full choke and set both cables accordingly. The mag side cable adjustment is turned all the way in so it give it as much slack as possible and that's just enough to achieve full choke. Clutch side is only adjusted half way. When I screw the choke plungers back in I can only get half choke not full??? I'm confused!!! I'm gonna borrow a different set of cables tomorrow and see what happens.

[MERCDIVER]

you will be much happier if you use a green spring instead

[ski-man]

don't overlook the exhaust pipe if you can only get 50 mph out of it they have a track record of plugging off the outlet when the swirl chamber silencer breaks loose.

[KidneyCracker]

I was wondering about that. I removed the exhaust, I can hear something loose when I shake it. Is not real bad loose. Whatever it is it barely moves. But my mind tells me that everything in there shouldn't move

[KidneyCracker]

Update: New choke cables = Problem Solved!!! I compared the old cables to new and my old cables were 3/8" shy of being able to bottom out in the carb. One plunger was able to go further then the other. Not sure why. So no matter what I did I could never get the mag side choke to close. Now she runs amazing!!! Still have a split second bog coming off idle when you pin it but I'll live with that.
Thanks to you guys for advice especially Duane for correct choke adjustment.

I haven't put the green spring in the drive clutch yet. I'm not sure if I should. It's the girlfriends sled and I'm not quite sure if she needs 4500 rpm engagement. I doubt she would use it LOL.

I've cleaned both clutches. All internal parts in both clutches all factory issued parts. I now get 6300-6400 rpms and 57-59 mph top end. If I pin it from a dead stop and watch the tach it will jump to 7100-7200 rpms then fall to 6000 then slowly climb to 6300-6400. All my tests I believe lead me to.... Get a new belt! She's sitting a little low In the driven (about a 1/8" down below the edge). The jump in rpms then slow fall I believe are tell tale signs of a belt slipping. Hope this solves it. Would like to get all bugs worked out before I tear it apart this summer to restore so she's ready come first snow next fall!!!

[MERCDIVER]

you could also tighten the secondary spring.  generaly they are in the  #3 hole

[KidneyCracker]

I'm hoping for one last ride this weekend if it's not too warm. Maybe I'll throw the green spring in and tighten up the secondary. Then see what she does.

[ski-man]

Get the thing to pull 7200rpm from start to finish and you will be really smiling

[Mister twister]

How is your belt deflection, clutch alignment and belt to shieve clearance in the primary? You can move the motor forward to tighten up the belt a little more if there is room left in the slots. That could help a lot too. Easy way I have found over the years to set chokes is to adjust the cable so that the plunger bottoms out just as the threads start to catch into the carb so it leaves a little bit of slack on each one. Very easy to do it that way and works great every time. 

[duane]

How is your belt deflection, clutch alignment and belt to shieve clearance in the primary? You can move the motor forward to tighten up the belt a little more if there is room left in the slots. That could help a lot too. Easy way I have found over the years to set chokes is to adjust the cable so that the plunger bottoms out just as the threads start to catch into the carb so it leaves a little bit of slack on each one. Very easy to do it that way and works great every time. 

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