POR 15

[chris r]

Anyone used this on their projects? I'm thinking about doing the frame, suspension, and all under hood metal on my truck project with it. Inner fenders and fire wall will be smooth and straight. Not sure on blasting the frame. Will do what ever suspension parts that fit in my cabinet.

[Vintagesleds.com]

[Vics stuff]

 I know guys that use the stuff and are real happy with the results.On heavy scaled rust , they say just brush the part with a metal brush and good to go.
 Vic

[TZR]

Used the basic POR 15 about 20 some years ago on some heavy rusted stuff.

All I did was hit it with a REAL aggressive wire wheel first.  Stuff had no oil, wax or grease on them....... still great rustwise 20 years later !

[1twisted]

I use there exhaust paint it’s called black magic sold in pints you have to spay it in a gun. It holds up so much better than a rattle can.  Regular pore is to be put over cleaned metal with rust on it not something that’s been blasted and all the rust removed I believe. Seems strange but it does work

[chris r]

Thanks for the info everyone.

My frame and suspension parts are basically rust free so I'm thinking power wash, scuff it up with something stiff and spray it on. I'd imagine a jug of wax and grease remover and a couple rags and I'm good to go. The inner fenders were blasted and sealed before I started metal finishing them so no worries there either. Firewall will be blasted and sealed soon too.

 

[jettawreck]

Lots of useful products.

https://www.por15.com

Under the FAQ menu:

WHAT IS THE BEST SURFACE ON WHICH TO PAINT POR-15?
POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation.

[Vics stuff]

 They make a chassis black that is for your frame.
 Vic

[Boaski]

I've used POR 15 in the past with good results. One thing I was warned about is to apply it out of a small container rather than the POR 15 container. One drop of sweat in a can will ruin the whole can. It's easier to throw away a cup of it than it is to throw away a gallon. The stuff also does a wonderful job of staining skin and clothing....

[jettawreck]

I've used POR 15 in the past with good results. One thing I was warned about is to apply it out of a small container rather than the POR 15 container. One drop of sweat in a can will ruin the whole can. It's easier to throw away a cup of it than it is to throw away a gallon. The stuff also does a wonderful job of staining skin and clothing....

One of my primary rules of painting (non-automotive type stuff) is you never work out of the can the product comes in. That container is only for storing the product before and after use, not during application.
Interesting bunch of products and on the motorcycle forums I've heard good things about the gas tank sealer.

[one shot]

A few other things about Por 15 are any area exposed to UV rays over time will chalk up so will need to be top coated for any kind of gloss level. Great product I used it sprayed directly on a clean southern truck chassis. Don't get it on you and pour any extra needed in another sealable container.

[JLOpower]

Don't buy much more product than you need. Opened cans don't store well.

[chris r]

Thanks for the advice everyone. Hope to get too it soon.

[Rusted Nuts]

I've used gallons of it. It works well, but MUST be top coated
If it will see even a hint of sun.
Here's what I learned the expensive way.
NEVER work out of the fresh can. The product activates with rust,  so dipping a used brush in the fresh can will set up that can in days.
Swipe your wife's 1/2 cup measuring scoop, (deny later) and use that to scoop what you need into a clean bowl, (cottage cheese, chip dip, Tupperware if you're brave ). Work out of that bowl with your brush.
Never let your brush touch the fresh can, or let the scoop touch your brush bowl.
Put the stolen scoop in a plastic bag, never let it touch rust.
It's OK if stolen scoop starts to set up before next use, wipe clean with fresh towel.
Clean the cover of the can with lacquer thinner and let dry.
Put 2 layers of plastic over the can before replacing the lid.
Use new plastic  every time you open the fresh can. I had 2 lids
glue tight to the can before I figured this out.
A chisle will open the lid, once.

[zrtrc]

A lot people recommend "chassis saver" paint over por 15. It is supposed to better for blasted surfaces.

[chris r]

I've done a lot of scraping of rust proofing and did some wire wheeling on the long straight areas of the frame with a 6" cup wheel. It seems as though the wire wheel polished up the frame rails so I'm a bit cautious about the paint sticking to it. Will probably go at it with some 120 grit paper before spraying.

Online I found that Advance Auto Parts stores sell the POR 15 and there's one about 10 miles from me so......... They never heard of it. Store 20 miles away............... never heard of it. Looks like maybe I'll get it from TP Tools and have it mailed to me. 

Question: It sounds like some guys are brushing on their POR 15 vs. spraying it, so everyone is happy with the finish? I'm thinking about brushing it on but some areas where the front cross member under the engine will be tough to get any coverage. I need to get it figured out so I can paint during our up-coming Indian Summer.